A friend asked me last week how long it takes to get a recipe right. I told him the only answer I know: As long as it takes. I’d like to be someone who could “adjust my expectations,” make peace with “close enough,” or have the slightest amount of chill when it’s clear that whatever I’m trying to do isn’t something I can pull off, but we’re wired how we’re wired.
So, in the interest of full transparency, I’ve been trying to get this exact recipe right for the last six summers, and honestly, it’s a crime how many peaches have been surrendered to versions that came up short. Each stone fruit season, I tinkered and took copious notes — mostly variations on “this wasn’t it.” Diced peaches were somehow bland. Thinly-sliced ones disappeared entirely. Spices in the batter made the whole thing beige without making it any more flavorful. Eventually, I’d be at an impasse and fold my cards for the season.
It took forever because I wanted several things from it, and I couldn’t let any of them go:
- I wanted a one-bowl cake, like my other favorite loaves. [See: Pumpkin, Banana, Zucchini, and Blueberry.] Ultimately, I accepted defeat on this, and this alone. (But you know I’m not over it.)
- I wanted it to star big, chunky wedges of pie-like peaches — that is, spiced, fragrant, baked until tender and juicy — embedded and suspended throughout.
- I wanted it to look like a peach crumble on top, with visible baked peaches lightly buckled into the cake beneath a mess of streusel.
- And finally, because neat, rule-following baked goods are overrated — as are squat loaves that don’t fill out the pan — I liked it best when this cake looked a little chaotic. Teetering on, and occasionally slightly over, the edge feels a bit like my mental state on this 945th day of summer break (but who’s counting?). So if this cake looks a little messy, well, so am I.
I know we’re about two minutes from the end of peach season, but the cake doesn’t care. It’s ready, and I humbly think it’s worth the wait.
Peach Cobbler Loaf
- 1¼ pounds (565 grams) peaches, pitted (no need to peel) and cut into 8 wedges
- Finely grated zest and juice from half a lemon
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1/3 cup (72 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (15 grams) light brown sugar, divided
- 6 tablespoons (3 ounces or 85 grams) unsalted butter, cold is fine
- 1/3 cup (65 grams) granulated sugar
- 1/2 cup (115 grams) plain unsweetened Greek-style yogurt or sour cream
- 2 large eggs
- 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1⅓ cups (180 grams) all-purpose flour
- 2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter, cold is fine
- 2 tablespoons (25 grams) granulated sugar
- Scant 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- Pinch of salt
- 1/4 cup (35 grams) all-purpose flour
Cake
Streusel
Prepare the cake: Finely grate the lemon zest into a large bowl and set aside. Place peach wedges in a medium bowl and squeeze the juice of the lemon half over it. Add cinnamon and 1 tablespoon of the brown sugar and stir to coat. Set aside.
Add 6 tablespoons melted butter to the larger bowl (with the zest in it), along with granulated sugar (1/3 cup) and remaining (1/3 cup) brown sugar; whisk to combine. Add yogurt or sour cream and mix. Add eggs and beat to combine. Sprinkle the surface of the batter with baking powder, baking soda, and salt and whisk thoroughly to combine, giving it a few extra stirs to make sure it’s mixed well. Add the flour (1⅓ cups) and stir until it disappears.
Make the streusel: Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a small bowl. Stir in remaining granulated sugar (2 tablespoons), cinnamon (scant 1/4 teaspoon), and pinch of salt, then remaining flour (¼ cup) until crumbs form.
Assemble the cake: Pour half of cake batter in your prepared pan, spreading it evenly. Arrange half of peaches on the batter in one layer. Spoon remaining batter over and spread it evenly. Arrange remaining peaches on top of the batter, then pour any juices collected in the bowl over the peaches. Sprinkle peaches with streusel.
Bake the cake: Place your prepared pan on a baking sheet (if you ignored me the first time, as I would have) and bake for 60 to 70 minutes, until a tester inserted into the center of the cake and also a few times under the top peach layer (where unbaked batter likes to collect) comes out clean. It might need up to 5 minutes longer. Let cool on a rack.
To serve: Run a knife along any sides of the cake that aren’t lined with parchment and use the parchment paper to lift it out of the loaf pan. Cut into thick slices.
Do ahead: This cake is very good on the first day but honestly even better on the second and third, if you’re planning ahead. I store it in the pan at room temperature, unwrapped (but often tuck it inside the microwave or oven as a kind of makeshift bread box) because I want the top to keep its texture.
Previously
6 months ago: Banana Chocolate Chip Cake
1 year ago: Double Chocolate Zucchini Bread
2 years ago: Napa Cabbage Wedge with Miso Dressing
3 years ago: Corn Cacio e Pepe
4 years ago: Corn Butter Farro
5 years ago: Baked Farro with Summer Vegetables
6 years ago: Mathilde’s Tomato Tart
7 years ago: Black Pepper Tofu and Eggplant
8 years ago: Foccacia Sandwiches for a Crowd
9 years ago: Blackberry-Blueberry Crumb Pie
10 years ago: Summer Squash Pizza, Peach Melba Popsicles, and Chile-Lime Melon Salad
11 years ago: Raspberry Crushed Ice
12 years ago: Cold Noodles with Miso, Lime, and Ginger and Apricot Pistachio Squares
13 years ago: Charred Corn Crepes, Burst Tomato Galette with Corn and Zucchini and Strawberry, Lime, and Black Pepper Popsicles
14 years ago: Pink Lemonade Bars and Charred Pepper Steak Sauce
15 years ago: Sugar Plum Crepes with Ricotta and Honey
16 years ago: Everyday Chocolate Cake and Zucchini and Almond Pasta Salad
17 years ago: Cantaloupe Salsa and Plum Kuchen and Roasted Carrot and Avocado Salad
18 years ago: Huevos Rancheros, Blueberry Crumb Bars and Napa Cabbage Salad with Buttermilk Dressing
19 years ago: Quick Zucchini Sauté
20! years! ago! Moules Frites
I can’t WAIT to make this loaf! I just ran into a friend at our local farmstead and he saw my purchases and said “MORE peaches Sally?”
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MAZEL to 20 years! I’ve been with you for most of that time, and it’s a treat (literally) to make your recipes, and read my comments from so many years ago!
ps – the best peach dish I’ve ever made: your peach dumplings from the OG SK cookbook, with half the pie crust – spectacular. One of my friends said it was in the top 3 things she’s ever eaten (and I agree!)
Today I was looking at all the peaches that I can’t stop buying on my counter wondering, “what am I going to do with you?” And then you posted this- I have been following you for years and now I know for certain we are psychically linked. Thank you! Making this later….
We just finished canning our peaches. We’ve been growing them for a few years, and this year the trees were overflowing!
Can I use the canned peaches here?
Would it be possible to make this in a round cake pan? Do you have a sense of how much I’d need to adjust the baking time? Thank you!!
I am so excited to make this! However I have a question – I am confused. I have noticed in your recipes that you sprinkle the baking soda, powder, flour, over the wet ingredients – and I’ve always thought you were supposed to mix the dry ingredients together and then add them together? thanks for everything – you are the BEST!
I don’t have a dishwasher and absolutely don’t mind multiple bowls, especially for something like this!
Peach season ended for me, however, I froze some 2 weeks ago. Could I use the frozen peaches?