Wednesday, February 4, 2009

whole lemon tart

whole lemon tart slice

Everyone has a favorite lemon tart, don’t they? I think of them as one those pastries that people obsess over to the point that crafting a great one is practically considered a higher calling. And I’d joke about this (okay, well, just a little) but if you’ve ever had a good, nay, great one, you totally get it. An awesome one will blow your mind. Some are filled with only a simple lemon curd, others with a creamier lemon filling, some are studded with fresh raspberries or have bits of candied lemon peel inside and the rare one even has a chunk of a fresh lemon segment within. I have never met one I didn’t like.

partially baked unshrinkable tart shellmeyer lemonwhirled fillingpouring the filling

But I do have a favorite, and it is so ridiculously simple that when I made it last week I actually kicked myself for waiting so long since the last time I gave it a spin. Where are my priorities? Seriously. I won’t slip up again.

whole lemon tart

This is such a great one to have in your files because it doesn’t demand a lot of your grocery list: just one whole lemon. That right, peel, pith and all. And because you only have to buy one, you can go ahead and splurge on the gorgeous Meyers around right now (but fortunately, this works with any kind of lemon). Everything else comes from common ingredients: butter, sugar, eggs and a parbaked tart shell that promises not to shrink up on you but when it all comes together… you won’t believe how much came from so little. Or how quickly an entire tart can disappear. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

whole lemon tart

Updated 2/12/09 If you scroll down in the comments, you’ll see some disparity between my results and the results of a few commenters. I’ve tested this recipe three times and never ended up with anything but a flawless tart, but want to give you a fair warning that not everyone has been so successful, and that I only wish I could get to the bottom of the issues!

Update 1/24/10 I get it! It happened to me. For years now, I’ve made this tart and adored it. It was a delight (see pictures above), the most perfect lemon tart I’d ever eaten. But about half the people who made this at home complained of butter separation, bubbling up and over the pan and the tart never setting and I did. not. get. it. I pulled my hairs out, I really did. And tonight, I had a Meyer lemon around and I went to make my favorite lemon tart and it separated, nearly erupted all over the oven and never ever set. The only difference? I’m in a different kitchen than the other times I’d made this and I know for certain that my previous oven ran cool and my newer oven absolutely runs hot. My diagnosis? The curd is curdling in a too-hot oven. The solution? Well, baking at a lower temperature. What temperature? I will test this again soon and let you know.

One year ago: Matzo Ball Soup

Whole Lemon Tart
Adapted from Rollet-Pradier via Dorie Greenspan’s Paris Sweets

[Please read the notes above before proceeding -- there is some wonkiness in this recipe!]

1 partially baked 9-inch (24-cm) Great Unshrinkable Tart Shell, or your favorite sweet tart shell
1 average-sized lemon (about 4 1/2 ounces; 130 grams), rinsed and dried (a regular lemon will make a sharper, more bitter tart; a Meyer lemon, however, will really make this tart sing)
1 1/2 cups (300 grams) sugar
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1 1/2 tablespoons (12 grams) cornstarch
1 stick (4 ounces; 115 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven 325°F (165°C). Line a trimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and put the tart shell on the sheet.

Slice the lemon into thin wedges, remove the seeds, and toss the lemon and sugar into the container of a blender or food processor. Blend or process, scraping down the sides of the container as needed, until the lemon is thoroughly pureed and blended with the sugar, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn the mixture into a bowl and, using a whisk, gently stir in the whole egg and the yolk, followed by the cornstarch and melted butter. [I actually just use the food processor for this whole mixing part, beating the other ingredients in until smooth.] Pour the filling into the crust but be sure to leave 1/4 inch between the top of your filling and the top edge of your crust.

Slide the baking sheet into the oven and bake the tart for 20 minutes. Increase the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C) and bake for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until the filling is bubbling, lightly browned and set. Don’t take the tart out until it is clearly set, however — you’re looking for a slight jiggliness with no suggestion of liquid underneath. Transfer the tart, still on the baking sheet, to a cooling rack and allow it to cool for at least 20 minutes before removing it from the pan. The tart is ready to be served when it reaches room temperature.

(Greenspan says the tart is best served the day it is made, but, if necessary, it can be kept in the refrigerator overnight; bring to cool room temperature before serving. I, however, love it cold, and have kept it in the fridge for up to a four days, after which, it was no more but certainly hadn’t gone bad yet.)


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