pearl couscous with olives and roasted tomatoes
I’ve had a minor fixation with Israeli couscous, the larger, more pearl-like variety of couscous, since my first year of graduate school. A friend of one of my housemates who was working as a live-in nanny-slash-cook for a wealthy family in Bethesda, brought over some leftovers from the family’s dinner and what was this? This smattering of white polka dots through a tangle of greens and vegetables? You call it couscous, too? Why has nobody told me about this before!
Of course, back then I could barely find it anywhere, except occasionally at the Fresh Fields in upper Georgetown where they had those bins which I still miss today when I’m forced to buy half a pound of pecans when I need a half-cup. But even there, Israeli couscous was something of an enigma.
Nowadays I can find it in a lot of stores, but I feel less good about eating it. Couscous, a fact that seems to repeatedly surprise my husband (namely because he hasn’t listened the first four times I told him, I’m just saying) is not a whole grain, in fact, its closer to a pasta than anything else, formed from semolina flour. In practically any dish that you see couscous, a grain such as quinoa, bulgur or barley could be easily replaced for added nutrients and fiber, and while we often do, I just can’t be so earnest every night. I was missing my couscous.
I have only three tried-and-true Israeli couscous dishes, the first, with roasted butternut squash and lemon, and was my standby carry-along to Thanksgiving dinner all those years I was a vegetarian and had no issue repeating the same recipe dozens of times. The second recipe is from Madhur Jaffrey, including morels and asparagus and is a total delight. And the third, well, I confess that the third is store-bought, a salad with dried cranberries, pecans, saffron and green onions from Whole Foods that I have yet to try to make at home.
Yet, it being not butternut squash, asparagus nor cranberry season and my craving for Israeli couscous was unremitting, I was forced to seek out something more weather befitting last night and ding-ding! I believe we have a new winner. Cherry or grape tomatoes are slow-roasted for an hour at a low temperature (ideal for the summer, as it will not offset you’re a/c’s goodness) with whole cloves of garlic. Tomatoes, when roasted, take on a deeper, more pronounced flavor, far from the artificial pungency of sun dried tomatoes, but more intense than the fresh, fruity variety. The roasted garlic is pureed with a handful of the tomatoes to make a dressing. The couscous is soaked in broth, and then minced thyme, mint and parsley are added in along with black olives. The olives amplify the flavor, without dominating, as do the array of herbs.
With a greens salad or a piece of meat or fish, dinner is most splendidly served and I get to sink my pearly whites into their chewy goodness, seasonally and enthusiastically, once again.
Pearl Couscous with Olives and Roasted Tomatoes
Gourmet, September 2002
Makes 6 servings
For roasted tomatoes and dressing
2 pt red grape or cherry tomatoes (1 1/2 lb)
3 large garlic cloves, left unpeeled
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup warm water
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
For couscous
2 3/4 cups chicken broth
2 1/4 cups pearl (Israeli) couscous
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup Kalamata or other brine-cured black olives, pitted and chopped
1/3 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
Roast tomatoes and make dressing:
Preheat oven to 250°F.
Halve tomatoes through stem ends and arrange, cut sides up, in 1 layer in a large shallow (1-inch-deep) baking pan. Add garlic to pan and roast in middle of oven until tomatoes are slightly shriveled around edges, about 1 hour. Cool in pan on a rack 30 minutes.
Peel garlic and puree with oil, water, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and 1/2 cup roasted tomatoes in a blender until dressing is very smooth.
Make couscous:
Bring broth to a boil in a 3-quart heavy saucepan and stir in couscous, then simmer, uncovered, 6 minutes. Cover pan and remove from heat. Let stand 10 minutes.
Spread couscous in 1 layer on a baking sheet and cool 15 minutes.
Transfer couscous to a bowl and stir in remaining ingredients, dressing, roasted tomatoes, and salt and pepper to taste.
Note: Roasted tomatoes, dressing, and couscous can be made 1 day ahead and kept separately, covered and chilled. Bring to room temperature before proceeding.
This is lovely and perfect for the weather. We’ve got our minds on tabouleh tonight! I share your guilt in eating couscous nowadays and try to use barley, cracked wheat, or quinoa. But sometimes, you just have to have the real deal.
Oh my, that looks amazing! Do you find that “acine de pepe” is a suitable substitute for Israeli couscous? Sometimes cookbooks will say it’s fine to use in place of Israeli couscous, but since I’ve never had Israeli coucous, I have no idea. My grandmother always made “pastina soup” with it and because I can’t find Israeli couscous, I just use this instead. In your opinion, does it match up?
You know, I haven’t tried acine de pepe yet, mostly because I find it fairly east to get pearl couscous. But, I bet it would be a great substitute. In fact, if it comes in whole wheat (something I don’t like in pasta but would forgive in couscous), I might even try it sooner.
I have a great curried couscous salad recipe that I’ve used these big guys for. It’s got slivered almonds, currants, grated carrots, red onions, lots of parsley and a sauce of yogurt, olive oil, garlic, s&p, turmeric and curry powder. It’s so good, we served it at our wedding!
Deb, do you have any good recipes for peanut butter cookies? Also, something lemony and coconuty that would be appropriate for a birthday? Thanks!
Uh YUM! I’m even willing to put up with the olives. I love couscous and one of my staple dishes while in North Carolina is a dish with couscous, veggies and shrimp. Another recipe for the archives.
Oh, have you ever tried it with wilted spinach and toasted pine nuts with a bit of olive oil? Heaven!
I too am infatuated with israeli couscous, Deb. I still have a hard time finding it here in Philly. Only one speciality market carries it, that I know of and it’s not close to home. But I still make a special trip just to stock up once in awhile. I’ll give the recipe a try very soon.
I love this recipe - being not so much of an olive fan, I omit them, and sometimes swap in cucumber or spinach instead … once I even added chickpeas! It’s all quite delish.
Wow. That looks amazing. I’m going to have to start looking until I find the evasive Israeli couscous. I wonder if the Arab grocery store would have it…
Drat. If only my husband’s “too tomato-y” rule didn’t eliminate this one from the “to try” file.
In other news, vicarious puppy pictures are available for perusing over in my neck of the woods. We brought him home last night and I’m still wrapping my head around it.
People, I warn you, unless you are stronger-willed and less susceptible to whimpering out loud whilst at work at the cuteness of a puppy, be careful before clicking over to RA’s Flickr stream. Because, ack, that baby Westie makes Alex and my leash hand’s ache with emptiness and now we HAVE to go to the puppy store on the way home OR ELSE.
Jessica — Luisa sent me this “haute nutter butter” recipe from Thomas Keller this week (and no, David Lebovitz, it still didn’t convince me to help her pack) but I have yet to get to it. I don’t yet have my Perfect peanut butter cookie recipe, but I do have a lot great inspiration.
OH, MY, I bought some Israeli couscous at the health food store on clearance. It was SO good!!!! I have had a hard time finding recipes to use it in, but this looks great. I will definately try it out.
I love pearl couscous, and that butternut squash/lemon recipe has been one of my staples also! In my experience it’s quite easy to find in most groceries. All the Arabs I know would take issue with the Israeli label, since the couscous has existed much longer. It’s actually comes from a traditional Lebanese ingredient, and it’s called moghrabbiya (the word maghreb means morocco, so it was sort of like the Lebanese mixed-up attempt to copy the Moroccans). The classic Lebanese preparation involved braised pearl onions, chickpeas and cinnamon, and traditionally with chicken, though you can use lamb or omit the meat (see here. Your version looks delicious!
That looks absolutely amazing! I have not had Israeli couscous in years! We used to make it at the catering company I worked for. It just makes you feel all warm and fuzzy on the inside! I will definitely be trying this recipe soon!
I share your fixation with the big bubbly couscous–and the sad guilt that I am not eating some health redeeming whole grain (shouldn’t it be a whole grain? It looks so much like one). I only fell for its charms last year–when I would make it just to eat it plain because that texture made me almost giggly.
The first time I had it was topped with ratatouille–which certainly is in season right now. Don’t you think all those good veggies would redeem the use of a little semolina flour?
We used to have a Fresh Fields store near me when I was little, but then Whole Foods bought it and we could no longer afford to regularly shop there anymore. That was nearly a decade ago, back when I believed fruit leathers and granola bars were truly candy (they really are!) and I hadn’t yet been corrupted by my grandmother and bologna.
funny how things work out…i was yearnin’ for some israeli couscous the other day and bought a bunch too! i must say, your roasted tomato addition sounds great!
That looks so tasty. I might go all out and throw in a bit of Israeli sheep’s milk feta because I love that stuff beyond all reason and will put it anywhere I think it could get along. And it looks perfect here. I will have my very own home grown grape tomatoes by next week if the weather holds and this dish looks like a perfect way to welcome them. Thanks!
Oma–I’d love to see your recipe. That sounds wonderful, too!
Mmm….puppy love!
And that dish looks delish. I would do barley with that in a heartbeat.
This recipe looks similar to one that I make, but I’ve never roasted the tomatoes, I’m going to try it (it’s feel more like I’ve actually cooked something for dinner, and I bet it’s make it better). THANK YOU for the nutter butter reminder (I earmarked that one a while ago and then somehow forgot). Those are my husband’s favorite cookies and he only eats them about twice a year (because I do the shopping, ha). If I could make something at home that would make him just as happy I think he might just drool.
My solution to the whole wheat, not whole wheat question: eat whole grains at breakfast and lunch, don’t worry about it so much at dinner time. My motto: no guilt.
Magpie Ima beat me to it. I was going to suggest tossing in some crumbled feta, because the flavor goes so beautifully with what you already have. I have made a far simpler couscous and cherry tomato salad, but never thought of roasting the tomatoes first, even though I *love* oven-roasted tomatoes. I will definitely be trying this sometime this summer!
Oh, that sounds AMAZING. I have to find some of this Israeli couscous and get on making this, because I’m drooling looking at these pictures. Seriously, I love you for this recipe without even trying it.
I’m going to work on some new ideas with all this inspiration, but so far my favourite pearl couscous recipe involves tossing it, cold, with lots of chopped cilantro and tomatoes, with a little red onion thrown in too. I dress it with olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper. Simple but fresh and delish with almost anything grilled!
Delicious! I tend to make the same things over and over with Israeli couscous, too, but it’s hard to resist all of those beautiful cherry tomatoes that are at the farmers’ markets now. A mix of red and gold tomatoes would be lovely in this salad. And yes, feta!
Excellent blog.
Are you pictures copyright protected? Have a look at : http://lovelyglamour.blogger.ba/
yuuum i’ve never had israeli couscous! It would be interesting to try!
I…wow. Those shots are amazing–the couscous really DOES look like pearls–and I can’t stop drooling over the tomatoes.
Thanks for this one Deb, I’m going to try it this week. I bought some Israeli couscous in a fit of inspiration a few months ago and still haven’t used it. I keep reading complaints about it being gummy and so I’ve been afraid to try it out and be disappointed. Yay!
Beautiful summer salad- would be VERY well received at a skybar BBQ. I’m also extremely jealous of the marco lens! I need to get one.
ok - it’s official
i love you
or maybe it’s just the proverbial cyber you
anyway
it could just be this recipe
which i wanna try really soon
signed,
your new best reader
I did a double take when I saw your tomato couscous photo. I made a fresh tomato and grilled corn salad with basil that from a distance or photo looks almost the same (small pale fresh corn kernels). I will confess I miss the ease of couscous now that I know I am gluten intolerant, but do try to sub in quinoa when I have a couscous moment. As far as your love of cherries goes, I love them too and am lucky to be from a cherry farm in Northern Michigan and it is cherry season right now! Great blog!
Cool blog.
Oh, I love Israeli couscous. It’s just so hard to find; when I do see it, I end up hoarding it. Now why do they make something so good so hard to find?
As to whoever asked about a peanut butter cookie recipe, I’ve been mesmerized by the easiness of this one — 1 cup peanut buter, 1 cup sugar, 1 egg. That’s all! Beware because they burn easily. Sprinkling with a touch of cayenne adds a nice touch too.
I’ve not had Israeli couscous, but it sounds worth seeking out. Toni over at Daily Bread Journal introduced me to the idea of having couscous play a supporting role with other ingredients taking the lead. Specifically chickpeas, in her case. A whole new way to think of couscous!
Never seen pearly cous cous either. Thank you for introducing me to them. Now I have to seek them out…
Everything looks absolutely delicious. I’m sitting in bed just drooling over every dish. Bookmarking this right away!
Alexis! good point! Mmmm speaking of which. Does anyone know if it is going to be nice on Sunday?
o my god, everything looks wow, wow
There is a porn site called smitten kitten.
aha aha ahha
could those tomatoes be ANY MORE PERFECT??? How the hell do you score such perfect produce all the time?
I have been searching high and low for Israeli Cous Cous. What surprises me is even Williams Sonoma doesn’t carry it!!!
At my local supermarket, there’s a $23 box of it, is there anywhere I can go where I can buy it for the regular cost of cous cous???
Dear Smitten–I love you too–made this yesterday while my husband finished painting the dining room–I helped–you know, a little (he has a much steadier hand then me–there is no way I can brush in near the baseboard without masking tape–he can–excuse the digression)–but isn’t it a much bigger help to make yummy food? I quoted Virginia Woolfe–about needing good food to do good work. Made several things over the weekend while he painted. Also made the indian trio last weekend–all delicious. I’m cooking my way through your past posts.
As for this recipe–Tabitha–I bought my Israeli couscous at our local Philadelphia “Nuts to You” store for $1.89 for a pound. I’m pretty sure they sell it loose at Whole Foods. And–I did the spread it out while it cools step–but why is that necessary? To stop the cooking time? Or to keep it from sticking? Could you not just run cold water over it and then toss with the last tablespoon of olive oil and the sauce? Love your blog!!!
This is a great recipe! We loved it. I was inspired to make it because of your beautiful pictures. I can’t wait to try more of your recipes. Thank you :)
Mmmmm this is some good stuff. I have to admit that I altered it just a wee bit - no parsley (gasp! - didn’t have any fresh!) so I used basil instead. Which I personally found quite agreeable. I also roasted some heirloom tomatoes to use in the sauce cause they were going to go to waste otherwise. Oh and after a recent meal of Penne Puttanseca, I think I might try adding anchovies to this the next time I make it. Loved it!
OK - this is WAAAY old now, but I had to note that I found a Hearty Grains mix at Trader Joe’s that was primarily Israeli Couscous, but also had yellow lentils, red quinoa, mini garbanzos and some other things thrown in. I just used the whole package for this recipe and the proportions are fine. It alleviated some of the “not eating any whole grains” guilt and the other things weren’t at all distracting (to me!). This is a WONDERFUL dish - and thank you for your blog -I’m not a sweets lover, but I’m working my way through all your savory recipes and I have yet to find one I don’t like.
Wow looks tasty!
Carmelo Lisciotto
I tried my hand at making this recipe today on this blustery cold stark winter day here in Brooklyn. My pantry was beckoning me I needed to make room for more Nutella and other vices so out came the Israeli Couscous and anything else I could grab. I made way to the grocery store, pummeled my way through the people, and got everything I needed to make this recipe work. I did indeed successfully make this and wanted to say thanks for saving my night. My girlfriend and I also made those peanut butter brownies yesterday for a friend birthday and for countless nights to come which indeed were a huge treat! All the best!