Elsewhere Archive

Thursday, August 16, 2007

tartlets, not innocent

Even haiku-writing food bloggers get in ruts. We fall back on our old crutches–overused commas and em-dashes. We get lazy with our descriptions, referring to too many things as “awakening,” “a revelation,” “succulent,” and/or “meltingly tender.” Cute turns twee as growing things become “veggies” and delicious is replaced with “yummy.” And find that all of our posts follow the same predictable pattern–there was a previous belief, an eye-opener, a tried-it-at-home and a happily-ever-after with a recipe on top. Fine, I’m just talking about myself, but how am I to grow without owning up to my bad habits?

Why air this dirty laundry today? Because I was about to start this entry with “it started out so innocently” but then the five-alarm went off in my head: No. Stop. Alert! Code Red! Backspace! So, although it did, let’s just pretend you know that already. And let us talk about The Tart That Started It All instead.

cherry tartcherry tart

Madeleine is a new bakery that I walk by on my way home from work, a refreshing change from the All Cupcakes All The Time that dominates New York bakery scene these days. I prefer a macaron or wee French tart any day over a bland cake with teeth-achingly sweet frosting (though my resolve is known to weaken if that frosting is, say, pink). A few weeks ago, I picked up a small cherry tartlet for Alex and I to split, the type I see often at pastry shops but rarely try and was bowled over to learn the stuff between the cherries tasted exactly like marzipan, and if anyone remembers back this long, they will know that I looove me some marzipan.

Of course, since I had only moderate success with my first marzipan endeavor, I was convinced that such a tart would be very difficult to make, but boy, was I wrong. If possible, it is even easier than a fresh berry tart with pastry cream, and although I wouldn’t dare play favorites, I do expect that my next several tart endeavors will have a ground almond padding around the bruleed fruit. In this case, the fruit was plums but as the apples and pears roll in, you better believe they’ll be next in line.
Oh, and by the way? It never starts innocently. What fun would that be?

Serious Eats: 5 Ways To Green Up Your Kitchen with no shame or mockery!

Aaargh! Despite apparently moving this here Kitchen to a bigger server last week, this site, as some have noticed, has been up and down and up and down for the last couple weeks. Some of the problems have been on the specific server itself, some–like yesterday and today–have been Dreamhost network-wide. Nonetheless, I’ve had enough and will be shopping for a more reliable hosting service next week. Harrumph!

Napa, Baby: Tomorrow morning, off we go! I am hoping to depart from the usual text-heavy nature of posts and slap some pictures and notes up here throughout the weekend. I really want you to see everything as immediately as we get to, because really, it’s the least you deserve for sending us on this awesome trip. However, if we’re too busy or exhausted, I have Jocelyn and her E-Z Bake Oven on stand-by. You have no idea how much she wants to bake you cookies.

Continued after the jump »

Wednesday, August 8, 2007

coleslaw overdose, not for naught

Have you ever eaten, like, a lot of cabbage over a few week period? I mean, a lot a lot. More cabbage than most people eat in two years, a lot. Well, thank goodness my cabbage-patching was not for nothing as my second NPR Kitchen Window column is up today about, you guessed it, coleslaw. (The first one, in March, was about Russian Zakuski.)

I have to admit that I am particularly pleased with these recipes, though I know that it is silly that it should warrant a confessional. On this site, I have published a couple coleslaw variations over the last year (an Indian-spiced, updated classic, and a green onion version), but I knew there was so much more out there. This article forced me to attack some of the ideas I have had brewing, though I simply can’t condone eating them in the frequency and quantity that we have.

Recipes on NPR include:

  • Blue Cheese Coleslaw
  • Napa Cabbage and Sesame Seed Slaw
  • Spicy Radicchio Slaw with Pecans
  • Pickled Coleslaw (a.k.a. my take on Zabar’s Health Salad I promised you way back when)

May your coleslaws never lack luster again!

Elsewhere: Coleslaw: You Could be a Star

Update, wholly unrelated: You know you have truly *arrived* (I kid) when your hosting service emails you to tell you that you’re getting too fat and they had to air lift you to another server. I’m not sure if anyone else would have noticed, but load times have been very sluggish lately, and this site has been down more than once, not including the time Alex and I decided it would be fun to delete it altogether. I am hoping this will be the end of the problems. And now, back to the roughage!

Tuesday, August 7, 2007

mixed bean salad

lickety-split

Adding to my infinite list of gastronomical oddities–I consider meat a side dish, cilantro tastes like dirt to me, I don’t drink tea and the only seafood I can stand is mussels–Alex and I finally ate at Mario Batali’s heroical West Village gastropub, The Spotted Pig, two weekends ago and all I’ve been able to talk about since were the salads.

With house-cured bresaola, proscuitto and various homemade sausages on the menu, it’s not named after swine for nothing. And while these are not to be overlooked, the salads were something of a symphony. I’ve said before that I don’t go to fuss-worthy restaurants because I fancy myself some sort of in-the-know foodie; I go for inspiration. Restaurants that don’t give me any new ideas for the Smitten Kitchen rarely get revisits.

cook them barelybald tomatoes

Continued after the jump »

Tuesday, March 13, 2007

mighty russian morsels

russian black bread

Bored of tapas? Over at NPR, I have a guided tour of Russian hors d’oeuvres, called zakuski, each as unsubtle, garlicky and brined as you should expect from my husband’s pickled-crazed people. It includes recipes for my mother-in-law’s famous eggplant caviar, Georgian kidney bean salad, salted mushrooms and the most complex, flavorful best black bread I have ever eaten. I hope you love it as much as we do.

Elsewhere: Mighty Russian Morsels

Monday, December 4, 2006

blue steel

self-portrait in chocolate

Along with some other cocoa fiends, I created a hot chocolate recipe that is up over at Four Weeks Magazine right now. It was an interesting process as I’m really a plain, old-school cocoa kinda girl, but I tried to think of what I would do if I really wanted to glam it up. One thing led to another we ended up with two sinfully rotund glasses of something akin to an orange mocha frappucino hot cocoa, along with a pile of orangettes. Somehow, I couldn’t make one without the other though I didn’t actually like the idea of eating them together. This drink needs some biscotti and an old movie. And come to think of it, so do I.

don't you love it when they peel this cleanly

old school