adventures in gulletry, a beginning
Despite evidence to the contrary — like when I wax on about syrup-ladling techniques and the sticky party of a fruit stem — I don’t consider myself much of a foodie. I’ve always thought of the stereotypical foodie as an epicure chaser, someone absorbed with finding the next talked-about drink, uber-dining experience or hard-to-come-by ingredient. While I love a transcendent meal as much as the next person with taste buds, my real fervor is for my pots, pans and measuring spoons. I really don’t care what Wylie Dufresne did with tomato confit; I just want to make apple pie as good as your grandmother.
That said, Alex and I have been doing something I consider very foodie-ish the last couple weekends: traveling miles (fine, blocks) for things New Yorkers usually talk about end-capped with a “You’ve got to try this. It really is the best.” My inner egotistical cook usually rolls her eyes in response; what baker can’t one-up the most basic cupcake recipe of the Magnolia Bakery, and with less attitude? But I’ve got to draw the line at these three delights we New Yorkers are likely the last to down. If you’ve got to occasionally fill your belly with confections crafted outside your kitchen, may they always be this magnificent.
The first, (and while shamefully not photographed, there are lovely images as well as a discussion of this and other fabulous NYC croissants at the Wandering Eater) was the plain croissant from Patisserie Claude. A butter assault of the awesomest variety, it has both the much-praised “shatter effect” of authentic croissants and inner plume-like moist layers, the polar opposite of the hollow shell impression I get from other highly-coveted ones. I cannot bestow any stronger praise on the bread than this: It’s better than any croissant we’ve eaten in Paris, and that this little, unassuming unparalleled culinary delight exists is one of my favorite things about New York.
Fueled by a hangover bequeathed to us at an Irish wedding the evening before, and the predictably strong need for grease, Alex and I set out for Yonah Schimmel’s Knish Bakery last Sunday. Alex, beholden to the old school, ordered his knish plain, dousing it in at least a 1:1 ratio with spicy brown mustard. Certain he was crazy not to choose the same, I ordered the roasted garlic and onion one and had it topped with cheddar. Yonah Schimmel’s is no place for restraint. I can’t describe it any better than this blurry picture, so I’ll leave you with that, and my accompanying cross-my-heart swear that I will never, ever eat again.
But first! A trip to the Doughnut Plant! This trove of deep-fried yeast has been around for over ten years, but the recipe dates back over 100, via the current owner’s grandfather. They make both cake and yeast doughnuts, but the cake one we tried, a Dulce De Leche filled creation actually forced upon us by the guy at the counter, tasted too close to that Dunkin Donuts texture I can’t stand. (A blasphemous comparison, I know.) The yeast ones, a Coconut Glazed for me and a Raspberry Glazed for Alex, however, were a thing of art, of taste bud fantasy, of plush, doughy dreams, of… Why are you still here? Really, go! What are you waiting for?
Patisserie Claude
187 W 4th Street
Yonah Schimmel Knish Bakery
137 East Houston Street
Doughnut Plant
279 Grand Street
[Like many-a-New Yorkers, I often get asked by people where they should go when they come to the city. I can’t help you much with site-seeing, but I can help you bring joy to your belly. Thus, I’ve just added a “Gulletry” category for adventures like this, and hope to stock it up very soon.]
ah, I really enjoyed reading this post - now I want even more to jump in a plane straigh to NYC…!
and that first picture… AMAZING! that fluffy inside…*drool, drool…* ;)
I am so glad I brought a baked potato for lunch today! After that pic nothing but a potato would do.
On the subject of donuts..I had a boyfriend once who was from Israel, he’s since returned there, but, while we were dating he told me that american donuts are horrible compared to his homeland. Now I don’t like donuts, because of that consistancy you mentioned, and that was his problem with them to, so I do hope to find a nice Jewish donut maker when I move to NY so I can see what he was going on about :)
oh dude, yes! dude, those donuts are sooooo goooood! omg, and so are those knishes! duuuuuuude! i’ve got to try those croissants!
wow, this post totally brought out my inner teeny-bopper/skaterboy enthusiasm!
duuuuude! i want a donut plant lavendar donut RIGHT NOW!
thank you for reminding me why i love living in the les deb!
Please talk more about the croissants…I remember this croissant that I got at a Time Square bakery when I was in High School, oh how it moved me to savor every single bite. You just can’t get that quality anywhere.
Now, I want to try a knish. I’ve never had the opportunity to enjoy one but now that my eyes have feasted, I feel that I must!
Now onto donuts. I must say I love the yeast ones plain with no icing so I don’t know how I would feel about trying different flavored glazed ones. Maybe one day, I’ll be bold.
This is off the subject, but I have to say, your hair looks so shiny and pretty in that dancing photo :)
i made the onion tart. i hope everyone makes the onion tart and eats it. it’s dope! i’ve never made a pie crust from scratch. i didn’t think it was easy to roll out so i pressed it in the dish. can you roll it out? are you supposed to use more flour for the sticking? great recipes!
Julia - I think a fluffy doughnut is a perfectly acceptable reason to fly to New York. Of course, this is coming from someone who has seriously considered, more than once, flying back to Paris for the salted butter caramel ice cream at Berthillon, so I might not exactly be the height of reason. But that is a damn good doughnut.
Jezzie - I went to Israel a really really long time ago, but do remember eating some excellent fried dough. I’d argue that any doughnut not made from a machine mix or mass produced, however, is worth trying at least once. In this case? To only try it once seems cruel.
Ann - Totally jealous. Chelsea does have it’s merits, but it wholly lacks 1) a berating Hasidic man who sells perfectly-fitting undergarments and 2) those goddamned doughnuts. Seriously, I cannot look at that picture on top of the page anymore and will be forced to update tomorrow just to push it down.
Jenn in Memphis - No icing! Those are my favorite, too, and everyone thinks I’m crazy. (Fortunately, in a box, they’re always the last to go so I’m never left without.) I didn’t see any there. I don’t know if it’s because they don’t have them left at 5:45 p.m. when we arrived (as they run out notoriously early. Did I mention they were out of the Valrohna chocolate variety? travesty!) or because they have something against them. The latter would be a shame.
M - That would be half a can of aerosol hair spray, thank you. Jersey, represent.
Bawdy - Hooray! Pressing it into the dish is perfectly acceptable. I’ve used Martha Stewart’s patee brisee recipe so many times, I’ve gotten used to it, but basically, when it just comes out of the fridge, it is a little cold to roll out and easily cracks. But, I just press it back, try it again, and usually on that second round the temperature has warmed up enough that it works. Still, there’s always one or two places where I end up patching it back together (cold water help it patch on well) and with the help of a therapist, I’ve come to terms with this and now find it acceptable. :)
doughnut plant is right by my house. it is a wonder i can still walk upright.